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My passion for European travel began in 1998. I read that year’s version of Europe by Eurail and was deeply sold on the concept of “base cities” and exotic excursions. Ever since, I have never visited Europe without a Eurail pass or one of its many variants. To date, I can say that European rail passes do deliver, mostly, what they promise. I.E. A convenient and comfortable way to see a group of nations packed closely together. Evening in Paris, morning in Madrid. Opposite extremes of the Habsburg empire within a day. It’s the stuffs you see in gorgeous travel photos, the glory of Old World from the comfort of a modern train carriage. And all made possible by one paper pass.
One paper pass that delivers. Mostly.
Over the years, one condition of usage has increasingly diminished the attraction of European rail passes. It’s called reservations. Yes. The passes grant you free travel with participating trains companies, but for the fastest and the best trains, you have to make reservations. Reservations which aren’t exactly cheap. Miscalculate your reservations costs, and you could likely be paying a small fortune for them. And that’s just the cost. Securing the reservations can be an adventure in itself. And it’s an adventure that no one would love to have on a vacation.
Are European rail passes still worthwhile? Vintage vector designed by Freepik
The Need For Reservations
It seems reasonable to pay a surcharge for the best trains. The technology, the maintenance etc. That is, till you discover the price of the reservations. The Thalys service between Brussels and Paris for example, costs 30 Euros / 20 Euros for 1st and 2nd class respectively. One way. That’s 60 Euros for both ways if you’re on an adult Eurail 1st class pass. Enough for a lot of pizzas and beers.
And no. No sneaking on board without reservations. There are checks, whether at the platform or on board.
Worse, some popular tourist routes are now connected exclusively by these services. Between Madrid and Seville for example. You could try to cover these routes with complicated roundabout journeys involving many crawling local trains and changes at remote stations. But how does a day on and off trains compare to a direct service? In other words, you are forced to pay. If you wish to enjoy Europe by train the way it was meant to be.
Here’s the page at Eurail’s web which lists the current reservation prices, as well as the trains requiring them. Notice that the lists are rather long in all categories.
The Securing Of Reservations
Securing a European train reservation through the Internet is easy. That is, if you’re willing to pay the price. To use these services, you pay a fee per reservation on top of the reservation surcharge. The service offered by Eurail itself charges 8 Euros per train for example. In my country, tour agencies charge around USD 10/- per reservation, the last I checked.
Which is more money to pay, in order to use your theoretically all-encompassing European rail pass. To avoid this additional layer of fees, it might thus make sense to secure the reservations in Europe itself. Using an automated machine for example. This could work, provided you manage to operate those things. Language barriers, faulty systems, inability to accept your foreign credit cards, and oh! Did I mention some of these machines only allow reservations for full tickets i.e. not for rail passes? This leaves you with just one option, to do the reservations at the counters. Which itself is …
The Queue For Reservations
Getting your reservations done over the counter is the easiest way. The system is familiar with such requests by foreign visitors. Nearly all counter personnel speak good English. You tell them what you need, *keyboard tapping*, and it’s done.
A wonderful experience. That begins when you finally reach the counter.
To illustrate what I’m saying, may I share my list of timing achievements:
- Paris Montparnasse: 20 minutes in standing queue
- Amsterdam Centraal: 40 minutes before my queue number blinked
- Madrid Atocha: Approximately 90 minutes before it was my turn. I had a long lunch with two coffees at the café near the travel centre
- Firenze Santa Maria: Well over two hours. I actually finished reading half a paperback.
My advice. If you intend to do your reservations over the counter, do it at a lesser station. Don’t try it at major hubs like Madrid Atocha or Venezia Santa Lucia. If possible, do as many reservations as you can in one go, no matter how surly the service personnel gets. This of course requires some pre-planning and ultimately limits your travel flexibility. But trust me, nothing is more exasperating than standing in queue during a vacation. And reaching the counter only to learn that all seats are sold out.
The Concept Of Reservations
Perhaps the greatest irk about reservations is that the entire concept goes contrary to what a railway pass is for. If you have to make reservations for so many trains, what’s the difference from buying individual tickets for each ride?
Sure, it could be argued that it’s for crowd control. In which case, isn’t there a more reasonable way to manage things? Take the exemplary JR Pass of Japan for example. Reservations are not mandatory though recommended. To cater to those without, there are always “jiyuseki”, or non-reservation carriages. Plus, reservations are free. The JR Pass does honour its promise of free-travel on all its trains with minimal conditions. You do not buy a JR Pass and end up paying a long list of surcharges.
Because of the need for reservations, your flexibility is also compromised. If you wish to play it safe and reserve your seats beforehand, you very much have to plan out your entire itinerary before departure. Any deviation from it and it involves significant money and time loss. Any ad-hoc decisions during your trip would have the same repercussions too. Say for example you wish to make a sudden trip from Rome down to Naples. Well, fine. Just go queue at Termini and hope there’s space. So much for free and easy, in the original sense of the phrase.
No Reservations For You!
The whole system of reservations aside, some European Rail Passes have one additional downside. Even if you are willing to pay or queue, you simply might NOT get a seat.
I experienced this in 2014. I was trying to book a TGV ride up to Paris from Nimes. To my surprise, every train from dawn till evening was “full.” This was unbelievable because according to the self-service kiosks and SNCF website, there were tens of seats available.
And then I found out from online forums that SNCF, or French Rail, severely limits the number of seats available for pass holders. So it was said, SNCF left the entire system, and only recently returned with lots of stringent conditions. Conditions such as allotting single-digit seats for foreign pass holders on its TGV trains, for example.
WTH.
I ended up waiting an entire day in Nimes for the only available train. Of course, I could have just waltzed onto any TGV and hoped not to be checked. But what happens if I do get caught? Could I talk my way into just paying the usual reservation fee, or would I be forced to pay for a full ticket? Whatever happens, such an encounter would sully the whole trip. In my opinion, so not the romantic way to enjoy Europe by train. And the very reason why I likely wouldn’t be using a railway pass again, the next time I get to visit Europe.
Europe, European Rail Passes, Eurail, travel fail, reservations